On the Taco

Consider the taco. A comparatively simple innovation — some meat, cheese, and sauce spread over a tortilla or hardened shell — it is nonetheless among humanity’s greatest. Indeed, I cannot think of a better argument for multiculturalism than the taco, which entered American cuisine by way of Mexican migrants in 1905, according to the Smithsonian. The fact that the United States’ foremost research institution has investigated the origins of the taco speaks to the importance of this culinary marvel, billions of which are eaten annually.

To truly appreciate the wondrous nature of the taco, however, one must first consume a quality taco, a taco baked with brilliance, a taco imbued with soul. Taco Bell is certainly well and good, but it does not capture that special spark of splendid vitality.

As a public service, then, I have quested across the North Shore in search of taco restaurants deserving of the name. I now present three worthy establishments in this first installment of the Forest Scout Taco Review.

Taqueria Toluca — 820 10th Street, Waukegan

Waukegan is merely a short hike from the bubble, yet few bubble residents bother to visit the city, a monument to industry and the home of renowned science fiction writer Ray Bradbury. Most prefer to drive right by and visit the lakehouse up in Door County instead.

But no lakehouse on the planet can boast tacos nearly the equal of those crafted at Taqueria Toluca, a bona fide south-of-the-border establishment. The sit-down restaurant serves crispy chips, a menagerie of delicious tacos (of which the fantastical Alambre, packed with pork, traditional sausage, onions, and other treasures is bound to be the meat lover’s favorite), zesty sauces, and plenty of other traditional fare (for those who do not eat tacos all day, every day). With its authentic, cozy atmosphere (television programming is in Spanish for half the time or more), the Toluca smothers its competition. In salsa, of course.

Mean Wiener — 532 Sheridan Road, Highwood

Highwood’s Mean Wiener features prominently in the taco culture of the North Shore, and for good reason: the joint serves a comfortable menu of American and Mexican food. Both options are spectacular (after all, the Wiener names itself after its hot dogs), but this is not a quest for the stale Yankee fare of which this country has so much. The tacionado seeks good tacos, wherever they may be found.

Those who make the five-mile journey south along Sheridan Road will not find themselves disappointed at the Wiener. Steak, barbacoa, fish, pork; name a meat, and it will be yours. All tacos are served with the perfect blend of cilantro, lettuce, tomato, onion, and cheese; the sauces are also a plus. The warm and friendly atmosphere does not capture the authenticity of Taqueria Toluca, but it still makes dining at the Wiener a solid and delicious decision.

The Otherdoor — 30 East Center Avenue, Lake Bluff

When the Census data become available next year, Bluffers will be elated to confirm that the village does indeed have the largest number of good restaurants per capita anywhere on the North Shore. The Silo, Graffiti Grill, Inovasi, Prairie Espresso, Maevery, Bluffington’s; those who contest the Bluff’s culinary superiority will once again find themselves proven wholly and incontrovertibly wrong. Adding to the town’s foodscape is the Otherdoor, a Lake Bluff classic.

LFHS students who have not been to the Taqueria Bluffinia, just across from the village green, are lacking a crucial aspect of their education and should not be allowed to graduate. Ride a bike some warm May evening and stop in for a taco or three; the experience is simply sublime, with delicious (albeit highly addictive) chips, ten excellent salsa heats (of which the #3 is especially prominent), and a wide selection of meats ranging from slow-cooked beef barbacoa to seasoned pork all gracing the menu. The atmosphere is authentic, the Coca-Cola cold; the Otherdoor is truly a taqueria for the ages.

The Forest Scout’s Taqueria Quality Index

The Forest Scout is pleased to award a five out of five to Taqueria Toluca, the Mean Wiener, and the Otherdoor. They all provide great service at reasonable price (the Otherdoor maxes out the cost, at $8.95 for three tacos) and present warm and homely vibes. It is hence challenging to place the three in a definitive order; my personal preference is Taqueria Toluca, Mean Wiener, Otherdoor.